Local Living in Argentina
To meet the Porteños of Argentina, you should shop at the local fairs and markets, chat with street vendors, take a taxi ride across town, or exchange money with the men and women who yell out “cambio” or “change” when you walk by.
I have found that the best way to meet the locals though, is to venture to the places you cannot find online, little holes in the wall left untouched by tourists. There are a few great spots where I have met many Porteños who I now spend time with regularly. The first place is called La Puerta Roja, a bar in San Telmo. When my friends and I first walked through the ominous red door and up the stairs to the hidden bar, we were greeted by a mass of locals, booming music, and a warm and friendly environment. They were all surprised that we had made our way to the spot and very excited to be conversing with foreigners. They practiced their English while we attempted our Spanish and we were able to communicate our backgrounds and stories effectively.
Another great place to meet and befriend Porteños is La Feria, again in San Telmo. La Feria is a sort of antique flea market that stretches for three quarters of a mile down Calle Denfensa next to La Casa Rosada. Every Sunday, vendors gather here from about ten in the morning until four in the afternoon to reunite with friends, sip mate to stay warm, and sell everything from artisanal dulce de leche to alpaca sweaters and leather boots. The fair is both a tourist attraction and a popular shopping center for the locals. The men and women I met here on my first Sunday in Buenos Aires were welcoming, kind, and always curious about where I am from and why I am here. Chatting with them is the best way to practice my Spanish and find out the hot spots to go for food and sweets nearby. At this market I bought small leather goods for my friends and family, intricate woodwork, silver necklaces and bracelets, and a beautiful leather bag for myself.
But the most interesting thing I’ve purchased here in Argentina was actually something I bought yesterday in El Calafate: Calafate berry liquor. The Calafate is an evergreen shrub with simple, shiny box-like leaves, native to the Patagonia region of Argentina and Chile. The bush is covered in spines and bright yellow flowers in the summertime. Its edible midnight-blue berries can be eaten right of the bush, but many are harvested for jams, alfajores (soft, delicate cookies with chocolate, dulce de leche, or cream fillings), and liquors such as the one I purchased. Legend has it that anyone who eats a Calafate berry is certain to return to Patagonia. I’ve eaten quite a few because I have decided I need to return to this breathtaking land.
Back on the topic of shopping, goods are relatively inexpensive here. It’s daunting to see 200 pesos as a price because it seems like so much money, but 200 pesos is really only about thirteen USD. Lunch every day ranges from 70 pesos to 120 pesos, or four to eight USD. Post cards are 15 pesos, or one USD. A good quality leather bag will be about 1000 pesos, or 70 USD. It is easy to keep track of how much I am spending here because I will take out about 2000 pesos a week, or 150 USD, to get me through lunches, coffee, snacks, shopping trips, recharging my sube card, and anything else that might cost a bit of money. I often have money left over for the next week because I am a frugal chick who doesn’t like to break the bank on anything.
The most I have spent on something here was 970 pesos (65 USD) on a big, beautiful leather and suede bag. It is the one item I have treated myself to because the bag I packed broke and I happen to be in the number one place in the world for leather. Other than this bag and gifts for my family, I really have not been spending all that much money here. Argentina is a great place to be if you’re balling on a budget like me.
