Senses of Jemaah El Fna
One of the highlights of living in Marrakesh was the main public market right in the center of the medina, Jemaah El Fna.
See
I was overwhelmed by the things to see in the market. From the variety of colors to the overcrowded shops there are infinite moving parts to see. It took me a few visits to feel like I was becoming a little familiar, but in all seriousness the market is so complex and with what seems like no structural layout it was easy to get lost. I ventured through the alleys alone sometimes but to avoid a headache (increased frequency of people yelling and following you) stick with a friend. Walking through the narrow alleys you’ll find the sections of the market selling spices, leather goods, carpets, animals, delicious food, tiles, pots, and a variety of other products. If you want the full experience I recommend visiting the market between sunset and sunrise. This is when most of the city comes out (because it’s ridiculously hot) and the market is the place to be.
Hear
As I walked through the courtyard leading to the market I immediately heard the various groups of musicians sitting in circles singing, dancing, and pounding drums. The groups would be playing different types of Moroccan music and the blend was actually quite unique. Once in the market all I would hear are the shouts from the merchants as I passed, “Yes?”, “You, come in”. The merchants are a little aggressive but I talked to a few while buying gifts and they were friendly and curious. Since the market is central to the city, at various times per day the call to prayer from the surrounding Mosques would echo in the sky.
Smell
Venturing through the alleys I would smell many spices, especially around the spice market (obviously). Huge piles of cumin, ginger, cinnamon, and paprika would be on display with merchants trying to sell you perfumes. The scent was clean and full bodied- a perfect mix of rose water and Moroccan cooking. If you were lucky you would also see dried chameleons hanging on display. It is said that if one wants to be married they must burn a dried chameleon and a partner would be in their near future.
Taste
One could not visit the market without stopping at one of the many orange juice stalls. Oranges are one of Morocco’s largest agriculture products. The stalls sell a variety of fresh squeezed juices but the most coveted is the orange juice. On a hot day I could jug one down in seconds. Once when I was wandering through the spice market I was led into a shop that lined the walls with jars of spices, dyes, perfumes, crystals, animal parts, and other gizmos. The “pharmacist” dressed with a white lab coat greeted me and insisted that I try a few of their products. He opened a jar with clear crystals inside and broke off a small piece. He then picked away at the small crystal with his nails until it was pen-tip sized. I put in my mouth and was hit with a slight burning/cooling sensation while my chest began to open up. Turns out it was menthol crystals. He then took out a mix of spices he claimed was a female Viagra and continued to make me a tea. I was a little hesitant but I thought why not. It was very strong packed with many flavors and afterward I quickly thanked him and left.
Touch
Carpet shopping is one of the luxuries of the market. I spent hours in one shop in the center of the market watching other students pick out beautifully hand woven carpets. By the touch of your hand you could sense if the carpet was old or new, used or never walked on. The different textures, styles, colors, and sizes made each carpet extremely unique. After hours of shuffling through carpets I spotted one I found interesting. I rub my hand and feel how soft it was- an indication that it has been used. I ended up falling in love with it and it is now proudly on display at home.
