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A Traveler’s Guide of Ghana

Drew Baldwin
May 29, 2018

Have you ever wanted to travel to an African country but didn’t know how? Have you ever been curious about the continent’s history and multitude of cultures? Do you really really enjoy traveling?

If you answered “yes” to any of those questions, this article is for you. By no means is my living in Ghana for three weeks equivalent to some other native’s-guide-of-Ghana, but I like to think my experiences here can be turned into some sort of pot of knowledge I can bestow upon others.

Also, disclaimer: My dialogue and I have primarily been traveling on the coast of Ghana, so I cannot speak for a to-do list of the rest of the country (although I do know if you want to see monkeys or elephants you should make your way up north.)

What to do in Accra, Ghana:

Accra is Ghana’s capital, a bustling and colorful city filled with food, traffic, and a lot of people. Sound familiar? It’s just like any other city one might travel to, except it lacks the skyscrapers of New York City and the public transit of San Francisco.

If you’re looking for a more developed area to travel to, and are intensely craving an American-style fast food burger, I would recommend Accra Mall.

Accra Mall Although there is not much to the mall, one can find a food court, movie theatre, grocery store, and money exchange store within its depths. It’s a perfect place to come and hang out if you’re looking for a place to grab a cup of coffee that isn’t instant coffee, or find a place where you can exchange your currency for Ghanian cedes. It also contains a number of ATMs, where you can withdraw money and not go through the hassle of carrying a multitude of American bills with you to a foreign country.

2. Frankies

This restaurant is located in what my in-country coordinator refers to as “downtown Accra.” If the various chicken and fried rice places look unappetizing, this restaurant has all you will need. Although it’s on the pricier side, its menu ranges from things such as a falafel sandwich to typical Ghanian jollof rice and fish. Plus, if you sit near a window, you can watch the hustle and bustle going on in the streets below without having to partake in its mayhem.

3. WEB DeBois Museum

This one is for the history buffs, the activists, and lovers of children’s artwork. The WEB DeBois Museum is DeBois’ old house turned museum for various school field trips and tourists. Not to mention the lobby contains artwork by local primary school students depicting what they think Ghana’s history looks like. The museum contains things such as gifts from world leaders, graduation caps and gowns, and some true furnished pieces.

4. Aburi Gardens

Home to thousands of species of plants, Aburi Gardens is a magical place to walk through. Trees line every walkway, and tour guides walk you through the various plant species that inhabit the garden. The garden is a popular venue for weddings, so if you draw your cards right, you may catch a glimpse of a Ghanian wedding—a.k.a. a lot of dancing and singing with family and friends.

Sightseeing in Cape Coast, Ghana:

Cape Coast is Ghana’s Rastafarian capital, so if you’re not a fan of all things Rasta, it may not be the beach town for you. Regardless, my group loved it, and unanimously voted it their favorite city so far. One of Cape Coast’s richest treasures (and darkest structures) is its slave castles. A trip to Cape Coast is incomplete without a visit to the places where history was made.

1. Cape Coast Castle

Cape Coast Castle is possibly the most well-known of Ghana’s slave castles. The castle was constructed with the sole intention of becoming a slave castle, equipped with windowless dungeons and containment cells. Cape Coast Castle also has a new museum on its grounds, which walks tours through the detailed history of slavery—one that you don’t see in textbooks. I recommend taking a long look at the museum before heading on your tour. To tour the castle, one does have to pay a fee, but any amount of money doesn’t add up to the horrors that took place within the castle’s walls.

2. Elmina Castle

Ghana’s other infamous slave castle is located a bit further away from town. Elmina has a few years on Cape Coast, noticeable in its lackadaisical paint job and configuration of dungeons. Elmina, unlike Cape Coast Castle, was made without the intention of becoming a slave castle. Therefore, the dungeons do not contain the pitch black darkness of Cape Coast’s, but by no means does it make it any less menacing. (A note about both castles: Around the entrance of both castles you will notice vendors. Many might try and come up to you, most will try and make conversation, but just look straight ahead and keep walking. Refrain from giving them your name, and definitely don’t spell it for them, all they want is to write it on a seashell and sell it to you. That said, if you want a Ghanian conch, then by all means introduce yourself!)

3. Oasis Restaurant

Oasis is a beach restaurant, bar, and drum circle all in one. Come on the right night and a group of African dancers will wow you with their rhythmic movements and deep booming drums. I admit it is a bit touristy, so if you are coming to Ghana to avoid the Westernized vibe, maybe just check the place out and then decide for yourself if it’s worth it. I will say, the beach is pretty nice!

4. Kakum National Park

One of Cape Coast’s top tourist destinations is Kakum National Park, a rainforest filled with seven roped suspension bridges overlooking the jungle. To get to the rope bridges, a short hike uphill will be necessary, but there are rest stops and coconut vendors on the way if need be. For those of you who aren’t fans of heights and don’t want to venture out onto seven bridges, there is an option to only complete three, which a few students decided to do. Our guide oh-so-nicely thought it would be comedic if he walked the bridges with us and swung them as we made our way across.

Fun in Kumasi, Ghana:

Kumasi, although not as well-known as Accra and Cape Coast, is a beautiful city located slightly more inland. Kumasi is home to Kwame Nkrumah University Science & Technology (KNUST), and before I list off places to see in Kumase, KNUST’s campus is definitely at the top of the list.

Manhyia Palace Museum

If you have ever wondered about the history of kings and queens and the Asanti Kingdom, the palace museum is the place for you. With encyclopedia-like tour guides who spit out dates and facts like it’s nobody’s business, and trinkets that mean the world to Ghanians, it is a cultural mosaic of Ghana.

2. Golden Tulip

This hotel is not native to Kumasi, so if one feels to inclined to find the Accra location, please feel free to do so. We only went to the Golden Tulip to use their pool (it’s 40 cedes), but it’s a nice break from the dusty roads and loud shops that characterize Kumasi. Although their food and drinks may burn a hole through your wallet, it’s nice to keep in mind that one U.S. dollar is equivalent to four point five Ghanian cedes.

This is my brief guide to Ghana (and I guess a bit of an overview on the last three weeks of my dialogue!) It only covers a few of what I believe are must-see or recommended venues. In the end, all of Ghana educates and envelops visitors with it’s unbelievably rich culture and history. My biggest recommendation would be this: Just soak it all in!