Caught up in Moroccan Detail
I landed in Morocco on a hot afternoon having just met up with the other students in Madrid. After rounding the troops we were on our way to the Center for Language and Culture (CLC) which is where we would be having our classes and lectures over the next two weeks.
We all sat gazing out at our new surroundings while the air conditioning happily blew down. Besides the heat, the first things I noticed were the colors. The burnt-red, stone buildings complimenting the green palms against the clear blue sky. The sidewalks were laced with intricate stone detailing and the visible streets were particularly cleared of rubbish. I would later find that the alley ways were filled with litter much more than the main streets. Speaking of, the main streets were calm. Not as calm as in the Midwest, where I am originally from, but calm for a developing country. Yes, there were sometimes horses or donkeys, but traffic was synched. Drivers were following the traffic signals, minimal horns were honked, and pedestrians had cross walks!
We were warmly greeted with “marhabaan” at the CLC and then shown the beautiful Salon where we enjoyed mint tea and biscuits. We gathered around the couches and anticipated our first Moroccan meal. Floods of food filled the tables: vegetable tagine, fresh herbed lamb, cucumber and tomato salad, pasta, many breads, and fekkas. Staff members and teachers kindly introduced themselves as we were savoring the meal.
Gueliz is a clean and developing area of Marrakech with many hotels, shops, and housing. The locals in the area seemed used to seeing foreigners as the CLC and surrounding schools have exchange programs set up. The locals I did come in contact with were friendly, even if I could only communicate in a few words, they smiled.
The ground grew hotter as the sun kept baking down and we would find shade when we could. We eventually finished the neighborhood loop and returned to the CLC in preparation to meet our host families. On the Moroccan part of the trip we are put in pairs and are staying with a Moroccan family in Marrakech (Will go more in detail in a later post). I am paired with Alfe, another fourth year from Northeastern. We stand by the front door eagerly waiting for our host sister to arrive. Finally we hear our names and receive three kisses from our host sister, Ilham. She speaks English well but enjoys testing our poor Darija skills (still learning!!). We stuff ourselves into a taxi and make the trek out to her home.
Her home is a beautiful villa in a northern district of Marrakech. We arrive at an intricate door hidden by date palms. The first thing I notice is loud music. I was happily surprised when we stepped foot onto the cool tile inside that it was Ilham’s mother blasting her favourite Moroccan music. Ilham’s mother is loving and warm. She leads us into their one of many salon’s which are beautifully decorated couches that line all the walls and colorful tiling to compliment. Alfe and I gaze around in awe.
“Ateay?” Ilham asks. Moroccan hospitality cannot be passes without some mint tea. And for our arrival the family prepared a feast. We sat down, for what we didn’t know, was a two hour pre-meal. Mint tea, fekkas, chocolate cake, mini tangines with honey, butter, and fresh olive oil, kefta, mahrash, and smida was served in the family’s nicest dishes. We all attempted to get to know one another having to improvise with google translate or body language to get and receive a few details. All while music played over the loud radio next to the Qu’ran.
By 9pm we were mentally and physically exhausted but thankful that our host family was being so welcoming. We were getting ready for bed when our host sister entered our room to inform us that dinner was ready. If there is one take away it is that food, warmth, and generosity is of plenty when welcomed into a Moroccan home.
