When I picture Japan, I see a large city filled with lots of lights, people, and things to do. I envision Shibuya Crossing or crowded shopping areas like Harajuku. I imagine I’d be just another person walking on a busy street. However, in Rikuzentakata, the small town where I spent my first few days in Japan, the complete opposite was true.
Rikuzentakata
The day after arriving in Japan, my dialogue group embarked on another journey up north to the small town of Rikuzentakata. Looking out the window on the bullet train, I saw the many colors and chaos of the big city transition to the lush greens of the forest and a calming ambiance. After multiple bus rides, train transfers, and a hilly walk, we made it to our destination.
We first settled down at the one hotel in town, then a group of us went out to try and find a restaurant for dinner. Walking the empty streets, I was taken aback when I noticed a man approaching us. He had been driving on the other side of the road, but pulled over and crossed the street to come talk to us. During his seven years of living in Rikuzentakata as an English teacher, the only other American he’d met was his colleague. I’ll never forget his happiness at seeing a group of fellow Americans after so many years.
After that interesting interaction, I became hyperaware of how I was perceived by the locals. Walking down the street, I noticed how every driver would turn to observe our large group. When we went to a museum in town, a group of schoolboys waved and jumped up and down enthusiastically to get our attention. Walking back to the hotel with my roommate, a toddler stared at us in awe. She started to giggle when we said hi to her. We had the honor of meeting with the mayor of Rikuzentakata, who told us that people had been calling his office to tell him they had seen a group of foreigners. We all felt like celebrities in that moment. People were excited by our presence, and I began to understand why after learning more about the history of the city.
Disasters and Recovery
The purpose of my dialogue is to study disaster and recovery in Japan. Rikuzentakata was hit especially hard during the 2011 Tōhoku earthquake and tsunami. In the last ten-plus years, the city has worked hard to recover from the catastrophe that killed 10% of its population. A 12.5-meter concrete sea wall has replaced the previous 4-meter sea wall to create a barrier between the town and the ocean. Additionally, people have moved up onto higher ground as another precaution. It was fascinating to see firsthand the resilience of a city and community after such a disastrous and destructive event.
During our meeting with the mayor, he talked about his goals for the community and economy. He has a vision of increasing tourism in the city to bring in revenue and awareness of his community’s growth. Surrounded by mountains, forests, and the ocean, Rikuzentakata is a beautiful and quaint place, but far from the tourist destination they (or at least the mayor) hope to become.
For me, the lack of other tourists, or other people in general, was a major draw. On our first day, a group of us happened upon a hiking trail to a shrine. The picturesque forest was even more beautiful once the sun started to set and the sun seeped through the trees. The only sounds I heard were from the bugs and birds flying overhead. Walking through the empty town alone felt like a main character movie moment. And I truly felt like a movie star since whenever I crossed paths with someone from the town they would bow (or if they were kids, they’d stare until I waved hi).
After only two nights in Rikuzentakata, we left for Sendai, a city of around a million people. Here, the group (and myself) blend in more. Though I will say, many young children get excited to see us. Yesterday, on our walk back from class at Tohoku University, my roommate and I were walking for a few blocks behind this little boy being carried in his mother’s arms. The whole way he smiled and waved at us, repeating “hello” over and over again. I love seeing all the cute children and their smiling faces as we travel the country.
On my last day in Rikuzentakata, I felt a little sad knowing that I’d never come to this small town again. Even if I come back to Japan, making it back to this remote area seems highly unlikely. While my vision of Japan is very metropolitan, I’m very glad I had the opportunity to visit a more rural area. Every country, especially one as large as Japan, is diverse and I’m happy I got to see the duality of the terrain within the island.
I’m excited for the next few weeks in Japan. After Sendai, we’re heading to Tokyo and then Kyoto. We also have some excursions to more rural places as well, like our hike tomorrow to Akiu Falls. While I love being in the city, it’s nice to be able to leave and spend time out of the hustle and bustle. Stay tuned for more Japan Journals!
Japanese Lesson!
Japanese Lesson (brought to you by our amazing TAs)
は じ め ま し て
HA JI ME MA SHI TE
Hajimemashite – Nice to meet you for the first time!
