Last week, just days before some classmates and I were scheduled to depart from Rome for a weekend excursion, I was surprised to find one of our destinations featured on the front page of the New York Times website. This medieval Umbrian village of Civita di Bagnoregio, perched upon a massive volcanic rock above the surrounding forests and fields, had caught my eye months ago during my travel research. I knew little of this town’s history and was simply drawn by its beauty, so I was a shock to see it was the star of an article titled “Who Will Save These Dying Italian Towns?”
Reading about the precarious status of Civita and other gorgeous, yet quickly deteriorating Italian villages made me all the more eager to visit one for myself this past weekend. The article, written by Deborah Needleman, described how Civita has been inhabited full-time by roughly only ten people over the past half century. Needleman’s explained the town’s emptiness by citing economic struggles and mass migration to urban areas over recent decades. Civita has been able to survive for the past two decades after it was “discovered” by tourists and is now a popular destination. So while there is no shortage of visitors to this stunning site, ecological forces instead will mean the eventual demise of this town. The island-like cliff that Civita was built upon is steadily eroding, meaning that if you want to walk its cobblestone roads for yourself you should not delay. According to Needleman, other towns are simply lacking in population, meaning that their formerly bustling streets and markets have become ghost towns.
After taking train after bus after bridge and finally reaching Civita di Bagnoregio, I can understand why the average traveler might opt to visit a larger, easier to access city. Nevertheless, I most definitely think that our long and slightly confusing journey was worth it; Civita was one of the most gorgeous places I have ever set foot. Walking the long, steep bridge up to this mystical stone haven, I truly felt that I was entering a medieval story book. Being a fairly popular destination, however, the town naturally caters to its visitors’ needs. But instead of ruining its charm with Starbucks and kitschy souvenir shops, its aesthetic is instead enhanced by cafes serving truffle bruschetta and artisanal pottery shops offering hand-painted dishes.
If, like me, you want to explore beyond Italy’s big cities and venture a bit more off the beaten path in the Tuscany/Umbria region, here is my weekend itinerary as a suggestion:
Friday – Siena
- Early in the morning, four of us travelled from Rome to Siena through the company Flixbus, which was comfortable and affordable. This trip took about three hours and cost about 13 euros. We then spent our first night in Siena at a gorgeous B&B in the city center, which we got a good deal on through com. The benefit of booking a B&B instead of a hotel for us was that we could find lodging with the right combination of double and single beds to accommodate our group’s gender mix.
- The highlights of our day in Siena included seeing Siena Cathedral, Piazza del Campo, and Palazzo Pubblico. Within the Palazzo Pubblico, we toured the Civic Museum, which offered fantastic fresco art and 17th century ceiling murals depicting historical Sienese culture. For students, admission was just 8 euros. We also stopped into Basilica Cateriniana San Domenico, a cathedral that displays the shocking relic of Saint Catherine of Siena’s severed head.
- That night we ate at a fantastic restaurant called L’Oro di Siena, which boasts a refined menu featuring Tuscan specialty meats.
Saturday – Orvieto/Civita di Bagnoregio
- The next morning, after coffee and croissants in a nearby piazza, we made our way to the train station and took a Trenitalia train to Orvieto, with a connection in Chiusi.
- Around noon, we arrived in Orvieto, a small town in Umbria that, while larger and more active that Civita di Bagnoregio, is also perched on a rocky cliff. The town is known for its wines, truffles, and underground caverns.
- After settling into our next quaint B&B which we also reserved through booking.com, we set off for Civita di Bagnoregio, my most highly anticipated destination. We took a tram from a Piazza Cahen in Orvieto down the steep cliffs to the town’s ground level train station. From there, we took a 3-euro bus to Bagnoregio, which was a 30 minute walk from Civita di Bagnoregio.
- In order to enter Civita itself, be aware that you must pay a 3-euro entrance fee. After paying at the check-point, you will cross a steep stone bridge, which offers visitors a stunning view of this village in the sky as they approach it.
- Once within the town, we enjoyed the views and the atmosphere from a café while sampling bread, cheeses, and a local red wine. We then explored the whole of the tiny village and enjoyed photographing the towns many free range cats.
- Because the last bus back to Orvieto leaves at 5:20, we decided to call a taxi to pick us up in Civita to take us back. Be aware that taxis are not stationed in Bagnoregio so you will need to call a taxi from Orvieto ahead of time. This ride back cost 45 euros, but split between four people we felt it was worth it to enjoy more time in this magnificent town.
- After retuning to Orvieto, we had a late dinner at a restaurant called Grotte del Funaro, which is located underground in a cavern built into the cliffs. Not only was the setting beautiful and unique, but the food – especially the truffle infused dishes – were excellent.
Sunday – Orvieto
- On our final day of this short weekend trip, we toured Orvieto itself. Because it was Sunday, we were able to enter the town’s magnificently ornate Duomo (Cathedral) of Orvieto for free.
- For lunch, we enjoyed cappuccinos and roasted pork paninis with mozzarella, feeding our leftovers to the friendly street cats. As an avid animal lover who actually brought a cat home with me from my last abroad experience, I thoroughly enjoyed the feline element of this trip.
- Finally, we headed to the train station to take another Trenitalia train back to Rome to start another week of classes. Before departing, however, I stopped at an open air market for some fresh bread, local Pecorino cheese, and a jar of truffle honey: the ultimate souvenirs.
As much as I enjoyed my visit to this region of Italy and especially to Civita di Bagnoregio, I cannot blame Italians for choosing not to settle in a town such as this one. Civita can be walked from end to end in five minutes and does not have a grocery store, forget a hospital or a school. Although the reality that these towns are being lost is tragic, it has made me appreciate their history and beauty all the more and incentivized me to continue to travel during my study abroad experience to see as many of Italy’s hidden treasures as possible.
